Mt.Barunse Expeditions

Mt. Baruntse of 7129m. Lies at the center of three glacier valleys, the Imja, Hunku, Barun and above the east and west col, in front of Mt. Makalu. The peak standing majestically in the center of some highest peaks of the Himalaya like Makalu, Lhotse and Nupse offers a rewarding climbing experience. The best views enjoyed during the expedition are of Mount Lhotse, Nupse, Everest and Makalu. This peak is technically not so demanding, comparing to Amadablam and Pumori, though it offers a good experience of snow and ice climb with some ice cliff obstacle sections around 700m. Fix rope is needed to ascent and descent especially from Camp 1, which will be done by our Sherpa climbers.

Itinerary

Day 01:  Arrival Kathmandu . Transfer to your Hotel.

Day 02:  Check Equipment/Briefing

Day 03:  Kathmandu .

Day 04:  Ktm-Lukla, Trek to Puyan, camp

Day 05: Pangom

Day 06: Naging Dingma 

Day 07: Chumbu Kharka  

Day 08: Cholem kharka

Day 09: Khola kharka 

Day 10: Kothe

Day 11: Thagnak

Day 12: Khare

Day 13: Khare rest

Day 14: Mera la base camp

Day 15: Mera high camp

Day 16:  Mera Peak Summit and back to base camp

Day 17: Khongmi Dingma

Day 18: Chomlang Base Camp

Day 19: Baruntse base camp.

Day 20- Day 30:Climbing period Mt. Baruntse

Day 31: Amphu Laptcha

Day 32-33: Chhukung .

Day 34:Tengboche

Day 35:Namche/Monjo

Day 36: Lukla

Day 37: Fly back to Kathmandu.

Day 38: Kathmandu, reserved day.

Day 39:  Departure from Kathmandu



Cost includes: Expedition Permit, Liaison officer with his equipment, insurance and daily wages, climbing Sherpa support, Cook and cook boy equipment, wages, all staffs' Insurance, Staffs' Helicopter evacuation Insurance, all food during the expedition Period, Radio permit, Sat Phone(Pay call basis), all camping and kitchen equipment, and all necessary things for expedition, Oxyzon-Mask/Regulater. High food with EPI Gas and Burner.


Equipments Check List



Climbing Equipment

  • Ice Axe w/Leash. General mountaineering tool. Sizing is important: under 5’7” use a 60cm tool; 5’7”- 6’1” use a 65cm tool; over 6’1” use a 70cm tool. (Too short is preferable to too long). Make sure you have a leash that is designed for use on a glacier axe. Please no technical leashes.
  • Crampons. With “step in” bindings and flat rather than “cookie cutter” frame rails anti balling plates OK. Keep in mind that ice specific crampons are for technical ice climbing and are not recommended for glacier travel. Anti-balling plates (optional).
  • Alpine climbing harness. Harness should fit over all clothing, have gear loops, adjustable leg loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang in. Make sure you can get into the harness without having to step through any part of it.
  • Carabiners (3) Locking; (3) Regular. 2 Twist lock & 1 small screw gate locker; 3 standard ovals recommended.
  • Climbing helmet. Alpine climbing helmet with sizing adjustments. Check to make sure helmet fits securely while wearing warm hat and balaclava.
  • Ascender (1). One right or one left.
  • Rappel/Belay device.
  • Prussiks. Or bring 40 feet of flexible 6mm accessory cord to make into prussiks.
  • Adjustable 3 Section Ski or Trekking poles. Optional but highly recommended. Helpful for non-snow covered ascents and descents if you have knee problems.

Footwear

  • Light hiking boots or trekking shoes. For day hikes and trek to Base Camp. The trail to Base Camp is rocky and rough. Shoes that are light weight, high comfort, plenty of room in the toe bed, with good support are important.
  • Tennis shoes or low top shoes. For international travel and town days. Optional.
  • Booties. Optional.
  • Camp Boots. Optional. Insulated boot for Base Camp.
  • High Altitude All-In-One Mountaineering Boot (also called triple boot or single boot system). Expedition boot that is a high altitude double boot with an integrated gaiter.
  • Wool or Synthetic Socks. 4 pair heavyweight socks to be worn over the liner socks. When layering socks, check fit over feet and inside boots.
  • Liner Socks. 4 pair of smooth thin wool, or synthetic to be worn next to the skin. Facilitates moving moisture away from your foot and helps reduces the incidence of blisters and hot-spots and makes the outer sock last longer before needing to be changed.
  • Booties. Down recommended.

Note: A High altitude double plastic boot in conjunction with a fully insulated overboot can substitute for the High Altitude All-In-One you will want to bring a pair of gaiters for lower on the mountain before switching to the insulated overboot.

Technical Clothing

  • Lightweight Long Underwear. 2-3 pair tops & bottoms, Capilene, other synthetic or wool. No Cotton. Lightweight is preferable as it is more versatile (worn single in warmer conditions and double layer for colder conditions.) Zip-T-neck tops allow more ventilation options. One set of white for intense sunny days on the glacier and one pair of dark for faster drying gives the most versatility.
  • Heavyweight Long Underwear. 1 pair. Expedition weight Capilene. (Alternative: a one-piece suit)
  • Lightweight Nylon Pants. 1 -2 pairs.
  • Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt. 1-2 pairs.
  • Synthetic/Soft Shell Jacket. A full-zip version is easier to put on and has better ventilation than a pullover.
  • Soft Shell Pants. These highly breathable, water repellant, 4-way stretch, durable pants are worn when conditions are mild.
  • Insulated Synthetic Pants. Full separating side zippers (This is very important for ventilation. Full side zips also allow pants to be taken off without hav¬ing to remove boots).
  • Down Pants. To fit over insulation layers. Outer shell must be windproof.
  • Expedition down Parka. Fully Baffled, Expedition Weight, must have good hood.
  • Insulated Synthetic Jacket. Optional. Allows you to leave your down parka up higher on the mountain as we establish higher camps.
  • Hard Shell jacket w/ hood. We recommend a waterproof breathable shell material with full front zipper, underarm zips, and no insulation. This outer layer protects against wind and rain.
  • Hard Shell Pants. Waterproof, breathable. Full length side zippers preferred because it allows easy removal of pants, 7/8th zippers allowed but is more difficult to remove pants, no short lower leg zippers allowed.
  • Down Suit. (Optional) Would replace the Expedition down Jacket and Down Pants.

Handwear

  • Lightweight Synthetic gloves. 1 pair. Should fit comfortably inside mitts or gloves. Lighter capilene preferred.
  • Heavyweight Synthetic/Soft Shell gloves. 1 pair. Wind stopper is helpful
  • Expedition Shell Gloves w/ insulated removable liners. 1 pair. For use lower on the mountain when expedition mitt is not needed.
  • Expedition Shell Mitts. 1 pair. Should be big enough so that synthetic gloves fit inside pile liners.
  • Hand warmers and Toe Warmers: Bring 3 sets of each. Toe Warmers are different than hand warmers because they are formulated to work in a lower oxygen environment, like the inside of a boot; they also burn out more quickly.

Headwear

  • Headlamp. High quality LED headlamp. Bring plenty of spare batteries.
  • Glacier glasses (w/ side covers or wrap around). 100% UV, IR, high quality optical lenses designed for mountain use, must have side covers, leashes, and a nose guard is particularly helpful. No more than 8% light transmission. If you wear contact lenses we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses. If you wear glasses we recommend prescription glacier glasses (gray or amber). Talk to your eye care professional to find out where prescription glacier glasses are available.
  • Baseball cap/sun hat. One with a good visor to shade the nose and eyes.
  • Ski Goggles, 1 pair. 100% UV & IR.
  • Balaclava. (1) Heavyweight, (1) Lightweight. Heavyweight must fit over lightweight
  • Warm synthetic/wool hat.
  • Buff. can be used to shade your neck. or provide face protection
  • Neoprene face mask. Optional

Personal Equipment

  • Expedition Backpack. 3,500 - 4,000 cu. in. There are many great packs.
  • Trekking Backpack. 2,000 - 2,500 cu. in. (Optional)
  • Sleeping Bag. (Expedition quality rated to at least -40°F). Goose down preferred over synthetic for bulk & weight. If well-cared-for a down bag will last much longer than a synthetic bag. Your bag needs to be long enough that your feet are not pressing out the foot box which will make you colder. It should be roomy enough for comfortable sleeping but snug enough for efficient heat retention.
  • Sleeping Bag. (Expedition quality rated to at least -20°F). A second bag for Base Camp. This avoids the carrying of the Expedition Bag up and down the mountain after the higher camps are established.
  • Self Inflating pads(2). Two 3/4 or full length pads. One for use at basecamp and one for camps higher on the moutain. If you are over 6’ a long is recommended. Make sure to include a repair kit.
  • Closed-Cell foam pad. Full length closed cell is recommended, used while staying at camps higher than bascamp and to be used in combination with your self inflating pad.
  • Cooking Gear: Cup: 16oz. plastic insulated mug with snap-on lid (retains heat well and is spill-resistant in the tent). Some prefer a non-insulated mug for warming hands.
  • Spoon: Good quality tough plastic (lexan).
  • Bowl: Plastic Tupperware type with 2-3 cup capacity and lid.
  • Sunscreen. SPF 40 or better, 2 small tubes. Make sure that you have new sunscreen.
  • Lipscreen. SPF 20 or better, at least 2 sticks. Make sure your lipscreen is new.
  • Water Bottles: 2 to 3 Wide mouth bottles with minimum 1 Litre capacity per bottle. No water bag or bladder systems, they freeze or are hard to fill.
  • Water Bottle parkas for the big bottles.
  • Toiletry bag. Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer and small towel (as well as tooth brush, tooth paste etc.)
  • Pee Bottle (1 Liter). Large mouth, clearly marked water bottle for use in tent.
  • Pee Funnel (for women). It is a good idea to practice, practice, and practice. For use in tent.
  • Camp Knife or Multi Tool. Medium sized. Keep the knife simple.
  • Thermos. 1 Liter capacity. Needs to be strong. Stainless Steel Vacuum bottle.
  • Trash Compactor bags (4). To line stuff sacks to keep gear dry & one large enough to line pack. At minimum 3 mil. thick.
  • Camera gear. Optional. We recommend a small digital camera above BC. Simple and light. For more information, see recommendations on the FAQ page of our website.
  • Compression Stuff Sacks. Especially for sleeping bags and clothing.

Traveling

  • 2 Large duffle bags w/ travel locks. Used for transporting your gear.
  • Base Camp Items. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books, playing cards,MP3 flash player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.
  • Travel Clothes. A set of clean clothes is nice to have to change into after the trip.

First Aid

  • Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, Moleskin, molefoam, waterproof first-aid tape, athletic tape, Band-Aids, personal medica¬tions, etc. The guides will have extensive first-aid kits, so leave anything extra behind. Let your guide know about any medical issues before the climb.
  • Drugs/Medications/Prescriptions. Climbers should bring Mupirocin (Bactroban) cream, excellent topical antibiotic for scrapes and cuts. Cirpro¬floxin (Cipro) 500mg tablets for traveler’s diarrhea and for urinary tract infections. Loperamide (Lomotil) or Immodium for diarrhea. Azithromycin (Z-pak) 250mg tablets for non-gastrointestinal infections. Acetazolamide (Diamox) 125 or 250mg tablets for alltitude sickness. Ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin) 200mg tablets for altitude headaches, sprains aches, etc. Excedrin,Acetaminophen (Tylenol) 325mg tablets for stomach sensitivity.

This list is only a guide. While you are required to bring everything on this list, there are numerous options, brands, and versions of each piece of equipment; you can search nearby your home town market or out of country